The long light of Reykjavík.
Five days chasing the midnight sun, hot springs, and skyr cheesecake on Laugavegur. By Constance Royer · photographs by the desk.
In June, Reykjavík does not get dark. The sun dips toward the horizon at eleven o'clock and then rises again before it touches it. This is alarming the first night and magnificent every night after. By the third evening you will stay up until two, not because anything is happening, but because the light keeps suggesting that something might.
Reykjavík is a small city. You can walk from the old harbour to Laugavegur in twelve minutes; from Laugavegur to Hallgrímskirkja in five. The neighbourhood distinction that matters is only whether you want to be inside the centre or outside it. Most people should be inside it.
Where to sleep
Holt Hotel
Largest Icelandic art collection in the country. fr. $312/nt.
Kex Hostel
Converted biscuit factory, great bar. fr. $74/nt.
Where to eat
- 09:00 · Brauð & Co — cinnamon buns pulled from the oven at eight sharp. Frakkastígur 16.
- 13:00 · Matur og Drykkur — salted cod head, fermented shark tasting board. Grandagarður 2.
- 22:30 · Snaps Bistro — open late, good lamb, still light outside. Þórsgata 1.