Eating your way through CDMX.
Four days in the world's most underrated food city: tacos at dawn, mezcal at midnight, murals in between. By Constance Royer · photographs by the desk.
Mexico City operates at a scale that defeats the casual visitor and rewards the one who stays long enough to find a rhythm. The rhythm, it turns out, is dietary. You eat at the taco stall at seven in the morning, you eat a long lunch at one-thirty, you drink mezcal from five until eight, then you eat again. This is not gluttony. It is the correct pace of the city.
Stay in Roma Norte or Condesa. They are walkable to each other and to the best restaurants. Polanco is finer but quieter; La Condesa is louder but younger. Roma Norte is the right amount of both.
Where to sleep
Casa Decu
12 rooms, garden, rooftop bar. fr. $194/nt.
Hotel Condesa
Converted 1940s apartment block. fr. $162/nt.
Where to eat
- 07:15 · El Vilsito — pastor tacos, trompo carved to order. Petén 248, Narvarte.
- 14:00 · Contramar — tuna tostadas, red-and-green grilled fish. Durango 200, Roma.
- 21:00 · Pujol — mole madre, two years in the making. Tennyson 133, Polanco.